After finding the broken autoadvance mechanism, I bit the bullet and ordered the aforementioned from Hitchocks. Nice and quick delivery. Finally nailed down a window of opportunity where there was (a) daylight and (b) distinct lack of rain, so went about fitting it. The first job was finding Top Dead Centre. Sparkplug out, TDC tool in, pop into 4th gear and rotate the rear wheel until the shaft is no longer moving up. Move it backwards and forwards a few times to make sure - I do it by feel with my eyes closed. It doesn't matter whether it's TDC on the compression or exhaust stroke, as the unit works on a wasted spark arrangement.
Since I'd already had the points and mechanical advance unit off, the next bit is to insert the magnetic rotor into the tapered hole, and loosely fit the provided bolt :-
Next the stator plate is put on, turned anticlockwise, the pillar screws tightened, then the magnetic rotor adjusted so that the magnets line up with the centre of the coils, and TDC checked again :-
Next bit has some confusion. The printed instructions supplied by Hitchcocks say to move the stator plate forward to a halfway position, whereas the PDF from Boyer's site say to rotate it fully clockwise. Halfway seems more logical, giving some room for tuning either way, so that's what I went with as a starting point. If I find it's out later, I can reposition the magnetic rotor slightly and realign with the coils.
I did take a picture of mounting the black box on the back of the left hand toolbox, but didn't come out that well. Ho hum. It's straightforward, but I found that the double sided tape supplied was pretty crap (even after "warming" as suggested) - when I tried to peel the backing off, the tape came with it, and wouldn't stay stuck to the toolbox. Yes, I cleaned it first. Luckily I had a roll of "No More Nails" double sided tape, which works a treat.
Wiring comes next, black to earth, black/yellow to black/yellow, black/white to black/white, white wire to positive side of the coil (where there is already a white wire coming from the ignition switch) and although the instructions said to put the blue wire to the wire that originally went to the points (also black) I connected this to the negative side of the coil, since that's where it ends up anyway.
I'm not overly worried about the routing of the wires as I intend to eventually move everything to the toolboxes. Once I'm happy she starts and runs, I'll tidy with zip ties.
That's the installation, now to see if it starts...
Well done Doug. I'm sure you had the same experience as I did. It may need 'fine tuning' once you get it out of the shed and on the road but you'll figure that out when the time comes. Congrats on the conversion. Once you get it right, you'll never have to bother with it again.
ReplyDeleteThanks :-) Aye, I was going to use a timing wheel and piston stop to get a spot on TDC, but that would have meant removing the primary case cover, draining, sodding about with getting a seal that doesn't leak, refilling etc., and I didn't have a lot of time to dedicate, so went for a "near enough" hit.
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