Time..

... for a new chain on the YBR. I'd not updated my calendar with the YBR's MOT date (I saw it on the calendar, but it was for the stolen one - not this one) so it ran out at the end of February. Oops. 

Gave it a check prior to booking it in this week, and finally the chain has reached the point of no return. Sprockets still have life in them, so I'll just splash out £14 for a new chain, then do the whole set next time around.

The Culprit.

Bingo.

Since the carb was new, the fuel was reasonably fresh and there was unburnt fuel getting through, I doubted it would be a blocked jet, so went for the part that I'd last worked on - the ignition. Took the coil pickup plate off, and found that I could move the magnetic rotor around by finger pressure. Must have been OK up until the point I gave it the beans, where the vibes loosened it off.

Found TDC, realigned it, tightened it, rechecked TDC, put the pickup plate back on. Started second kick. If this becomes a problem, I'll Loctite it. Or weld it.

I won't really weld it.

Still got to tune it, get the carb setup right, and I've a long list of cosmetic jobs I want to do, but I'll settle for running at the mo. Hopefully, I'll get another shakedown ride in at the weekend, and maybe, just maybe, make it to Billing Bike Meet on Wednesday.

It's Dead!

3:30pm Take the bike for a spin

4:00pm Bike dies, refuses to restart

4:30pm Give up trying to restart it, call the RAC

5:10pm RAC attend. They can't start it either, so call for recovery, ETA 6:20pm

6:10pm RAC report ETA now 7:50pm

7:30pm RAC report ETA now 8:20pm

8:25pm Recovery arrive

9:15pm Home

9:16pm Beer

I only wanted a quick shakedown run in the sunshine yesterday :-( Bike was running fine until I took it up to WOT, and it felt like fuel starvation just before it died, so thought maybe the float height needs tweaking. Pulled over, tickled the carb, no bueno. Great time to NOT have more than a Leatherman on me - d'oh! Sparkplug was sooty (I think I need to go down a size on the main jet) so that was cleaned as best as I could and retried - still no go. Checked to see if the previous timing work had slipped at all, nope, that was in the same place I'd put it.

When the RAC arrived he checked the same things I'd already looked at, but gave the sparkplug a better clean, checked the gap, and heated it with a blowtorch before putting it back in. Still no go, so he orders a flatbed for a recovery.

4 sodding hours later, I'm home. Could have pushed it home in half that time.

I have compression, a spark and fuel comes out of the tickler. Current guess is a blocked jet, or the magnetic rotor has come loose and shifted. We'll see.

It's Alive!

Well, not at first :-)

Attempting to start had the bike kicking back, which according to the instructions is low voltage. The battery was checked, and with the headlight on full beam it was still showing 12.2V so that was OK.

The spark can be checked by disconnecting the stator, then shorting the black/yellow and black/white wires going to the black box. With the sparkplug out and resting against the head, it sparks every time you short the connection. So far, so good.

I moved the stator plate back to the position that the online PDF stated, and it started on the second kick. It wouldn't idle cleanly, revs were high, and only got higher when when releasing the air slide.

Since I'd not started the bike since putting the Amal on, I had an additional factor working against me. I checked the pilot screw, and found it was almost fully out. Pretty sure I had checked that when I put the carb on, obviously not. Screwed it all the way in, and back out 1.5 turns as a starting point, much happier, although the revs were still high.

The cable adjuster at the twist grip end had looked bodged when I put the carb on (I don't think it's the right one for either the Mikcarb nor the Amal - not even the right thread for the twist grip), and gave virtually no slack. I removed the adjusting ring which gave me about 5mm of adjustment to play with. This let me drop the idle down to something a bit more palatable, albeit not quite smooth yet.

And then the rain started.

Pretty sure that the timing will need a final tweak, and that the jetting/float height/needle height will need playing with, and the correct cable adjuster procured, but it's all back together now and running, and that makes Shaggy happy.

I'll figure out how to do a decent video one day.

Boyer Bransden Mk4 Electronic Ignition Fitting

After finding the broken autoadvance mechanism, I bit the bullet and ordered the aforementioned from Hitchocks. Nice and quick delivery. Finally nailed down a window of opportunity where there was (a) daylight and (b) distinct lack of rain, so went about fitting it. The first job was finding Top Dead Centre. Sparkplug out, TDC tool in, pop into 4th gear and rotate the rear wheel until the shaft is no longer moving up. Move it backwards and forwards a few times to make sure - I do it by feel with my eyes closed. It doesn't matter whether it's TDC on the compression or exhaust stroke, as the unit works on a wasted spark arrangement.

Since I'd already had the points and mechanical advance unit off, the next bit is to insert the magnetic rotor into the tapered hole, and loosely fit the provided bolt :-

Next the stator plate is put on, turned anticlockwise, the pillar screws tightened, then the magnetic rotor adjusted so that the magnets line up with the centre of the coils, and TDC checked again :-

Next bit has some confusion. The printed instructions supplied by Hitchcocks say to move the stator plate forward to a halfway position, whereas the PDF from Boyer's site say to rotate it fully clockwise. Halfway seems more logical, giving some room for tuning either way, so that's what I went with as a starting point. If I find it's out later, I can reposition the magnetic rotor slightly and realign with the coils.

I did take a picture of mounting the black box on the back of the left hand toolbox, but didn't come out that well. Ho hum. It's straightforward, but I found that the double sided tape supplied was pretty crap (even after "warming" as suggested) - when I tried to peel the backing off, the tape came with it, and wouldn't stay stuck to the toolbox. Yes, I cleaned it first. Luckily I had a roll of "No More Nails" double sided tape, which works a treat.

Wiring comes next, black to earth, black/yellow to black/yellow, black/white to black/white, white wire to positive side of the coil (where there is already a white wire coming from the ignition switch) and although the instructions said to put the blue wire to the wire that originally went to the points (also black) I connected this to the negative side of the coil, since that's where it ends up anyway.

I'm not overly worried about the routing of the wires as I intend to eventually move everything to the toolboxes. Once I'm happy she starts and runs, I'll tidy with zip ties.

That's the installation, now to see if it starts...

Oh dear.

Couldn't quite get the timing right, and examining the auto advance mechanism, found this.

Perfect opportunity to go electronic, methinks :-)

...a bit more work...

New Amal concentric carb fitted, old air box removed, still need to sort the twist grip adjuster though, as it's non standard and leaves no slack in the cable. Timing looked at, and whilst it's at the maximum of the contact breaker's plate adjustment, it's still not spot on. Have procured the tool from Hitchcocks to remove the cam so it can be repositioned, and the locking washer so that the timing can also be set at full advance.

New Lithium battery has been fitted, and a new positive feed cable made up, as the other one was green and holding on by about 4 strands of copper. Redid the rear loom with permanent connectors, rather than the temporary chocblock connector I'd put on, and made up a pair of brackets, then rewired/relocated a new pair of rear indicators. This means I can now use panniers without hiding the indicators, and there's less chrome to polish. Need to paint the new bolts that replaced them - far too shiny :-)

Photo was taken before I angled both the same way, and tightened the nuts :-)

Bonus tip, Rimmel of London's "Black Cab" nail varnish is a good match for a black Enfield, to cover small scratches before the rust sets in. Don't ask how I had Rimmel of London's "Black Cab" nail varnish in my toolbox.

Not Shaggy's fingers.